The Hellfire Caves

The Hellfire Caves are located in the village of West Wycombe, England. They are a system of man-made caves, and are thought to have been excavated to create more local jobs, to provide resources for local projects, and as part of a fashionable trend at the time amongst the wealthy. They were dug out during the 1740s and 1750s through the demand of Sir Francis Dashwood, an influential figure at the time who served as the Chancellor of the Exchequer during the 1760s. There are plenty of rumours and speculation about what occured in these caves, especially regarding the Hellfire Club.

It was not the original Hellfire Club which held meetings in these caves, and it seems Francis Dashwood's club only held a few meetings here. Regardless, there are still many tales about devil worship and debauchery in connection to these caves. The Hellfire Caves are believed to be haunted, mainly by two spirits in particular; but it seems there are more. The two particular spirits are a woman in white and a member of Dashwood's Hellfire Club. Aside these two, there are also speculations that children, a hooded monk, and even the ghost of Benjamin Franklin roam the caves.

History

The Hellfire Caves were dug out in the Chiltern Hills, which are in West Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. During the early times before the caves, there was an open-cast quarry on the side of the hill which was used for mining chalk for the foundations of the village's houses and roads. The quarry is shown in one of Hannan's paintings from the 1740s. Sir Francis Dashwood, the 2nd Baronet, extended the quarry as an answer to the serious unemployment issue of the local area. This issue was caused by three successive harvest failures which accused during 1748, 1749, and 1750. The quarry was also extended to provide the materials needed for a new main road which would run between West Wycombe and High Wycombe. The men who were employed were paid one shilling a day, which back then was enough to live on.

The old road, which needed replacing, ran along the bottom of the valley and had become so deeply rutted that carriages frequently overturned, especially in wet weather. The new road was on a straight line to Wycombe, but it was also built to provide a three mile vista of the church tower topped with a golden ball which was on the hill. The Dashwood Mausoleum, which has been called one of the most famous landmarks in Britain, was added beside this church a few years later during 1765. The intended view created is still evident today. This project of Dashwood's was in keeping with proposals which he had introduced in Parliament during his time as Chancellor of the Exchequer between the years of 1962 and 1963. These proposals were to stimulate the creation of work to relieve rural unemployment.

Dashwood could have just enlarged the existing quarry to relieve local unemployment, and this was the obvious thing to have done, but instead he chose to employ people to dig a long winding tunnel roughly a quarter of a mile into the hill with all sorts of chambers and divided passages included. The caves also had a huge room included halfway through. The caves were excavated between 1748 and 1754, although I have found some sources contradict this by saying they were excavated between 1748 and 1752. It's been said that the caves were dug out by one hundred men over the course of six years.

As for why these caves were dug out, it's thought a reason for this dates back to 1726 when Sir Francis Dashwood went on what was known as a Grand Tour. During this tour, he visited Italy, Greece, Turkey, Syria, and other areas of the Ottoman Empire. When in these places, he was inspired by similar caves, tunnels, and styles of architecture. Many landowners at the time were creating large estates and they were building impressive houses which were decorated with the latest fashion and artwork. There was a rivalry between landowners, and it's thought that Dashwood wanted to out-do his neighbor, Lord Temple. Many landowners were creating wonders above ground, so Dashwood decided he would be the first to create something of that scale underground.

Another much smaller cave was dug out close to the small studio house outside Marlow on the road to Medmenham, which has occupied by Giuseppe Borgnis; a painter Sir Francis had brought over from Italy to decorate West Wycombe. It's unlikely that either of the caves had any pseudo-religious significance. There were anti-religious cults in northern Italy at the time, and there were masonic societies in Rome and Florence, but there is no evidence that Borgnis was involved in these. Borgnis was a prolific painter of church interiors in his local area of Craveggia, near Milan, so it would make no sense for him to be against religion. It's thought that the design of the Hellfire caves is symbolic, but that it's thought to have something to do with the Eleusian mysteries of ancient Greece. It's also thought the caves were simply a fun project to undertake which included an element of mischief.

I've also found that caves and follies were fashionable at the time. Horace Walpole had built a cave at his house located on Strawberry Hill, in London. He had also gained some stalactites from the natural caves at Wookey Hole in Somerset. There are many other examples of caves like this, such as at Stourhead and Stowe; but Sir Francis Dashwood's cave is said to have been the largest and most luxurious of them all. It's been said that he also aquired stalactites and stalagmites, which were possibly from the witch's cave at Wookey Hole, to decorate his own Hellfire Caves. He also created a tall flint facade with a vaulted window, that was divided by two slender stone columns, which was placed over the arched entrance to the cave. On either side of the facade were high walls of flint with arches and recesses for statues. This encompassed a large open courtyard. It was deigned in a way so thst if you were to look at the entrance from the house across the valley, it would resemble just another feature in the landscape. In the case of the Hellfire Caves, the entrance resembled a gothic Church.

Before moving on to more modern times, it's important to discuss where the name and reputation of the Hellfire Caves originated from. The original Hellfire Club was founded by the Duke of Wharton during 1718, however I have found contracting information saying it was founded during 1719. From what I can tell, Sir Francis Dashwood's club had nothing to do with the original Hellfire Club. The original Hellfire Club was located in London, and it disbanded during 1721. Sir Francis Dashwood founded a number of clubs during his time. He founded the Dilettante Society during 1733 to encourage interest in classical art, and he founded the Divan Club during 1744 for people who had visited the Ottoman Empire.

Sir Francis Dashwood's 'Hellfire Club', as it was later known, originally went by the name 'The Knights of Sir Francis of Wycombe'. I have found other names were 'The Brotherhood of Sir Francis of Wycombe', 'The Order of Knights of West Wycombe', 'The Order of the Friars of St Francis of West Wycombe', 'The Fransciscans', and 'The Monks of Meddenham'. It's possible that 'The Monks of Meddenham' is a typo within one source as the location the name refers to is 'Medmenham'; so the correct alternative name was likely 'The Monks of Medmenham'.

This club was founded around the year of 1746, and originally met at the George and Vulture in London, and it later moved to the ruins of the old cistercian abbey at Medmenham. This location was six miles away from West Wycombe, and it was on the River Thames near Healey. During this time period, all that was left of the abbey and surrounding buildings was some columns, walls, and broken statues. Sir Francis invested in the area, and improved it to be an adequate meeting place for the club. The first meetings at the Abbey are roughly thought to have occured during the year of 1750. Chapter meetings and 'private devotions' continued during 1762, 1763, and 1764; although the club was in it's dying days during the 1760s.

As for the members, they were all important people of the time. These people included MPs, the First Lord of the Admiralty, the son of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and the physician to the Prince of Wales. The list of names, although possibly not every name, is as follows:

. Sir Francis Dashwood

. Paul Whitehead

. The 4th Earl of Sandwich

. Lord Melcombe Regis

. Sir Thomas Stapleton

. Sir William Stanhope

. Thomas Potter

. Sir John Dashwood-King

. Dr Thomas Thompson

. Francis Duffield

. John Tucker

. Arthur Vansittart

. Sir Henry Vansittart

. Robert Vansittart

. Charles Churchill

. Robert Lloyd

. George Selwyn

. John Wilkes

. Sir John Aubrey

. Dr Benjamin Bares

. William Hogarth

. Mr Clarke

. Dr John Morton

. Richard Hopkins

. Sir John Russell

At some point, the club moved from Medmenham Abbey to the Hellfire Caves. I assume this occured after 1766 as on the 22nd of March 1766, Tucker wrote: "I was last Sunday at Medmenham and to thy amazement found the chapter room stripped naked". To me, this indicates that they had moved out of the Abbey around this time. It seems if this was the case, the the club's time of using the caves was incredibly brief. After visiting the caves during 1796, Lybbe Powys wrote the following in her diary: "Near the middle of the excavation there is a small pool which is now crossed by stepping stones, but formerly it is said it would only be passed in a boat. The excavation terminates in a large lofty circular cavern with a vaulted roof in which is a hook for suspending a lamp or chandelier. Here according to location tradition, the Hellfire Club occasionally held it's meetings".

Lybbe's account tells us that not only had the club ceased using the caves by 1796, but also that it seems tales of their meetings in this location had fallen into rumour and speculation; almost akin to a local legend. John Wilkes, an MP and club member, described the club's meetings as follows: "a set of worthy, jolly fellows, happy disciples of Venus and Bacchus, got occasionally together to celebrate women in wine and to give more zest to the festive meeting, they plucked every luxurious idea from the ancients and enriched their own modern pleasures with the tradition of classic luxury". There were rumours of devil worship and satanic rituals, but there is no evidence of this. Club meetings were held twice a month, and twice a year a longer event was organised which lasted for one week. More likely to have happened, but what is still purely rumour, is excessive drinking, wild sex parties, and mock rituals.

Club members were asked to wear costumes, and owns said that any invited ladies were brought into the caves dressed as nuns. The club's motto was 'Fais ce que tu voudrais', and this translates to 'Do what thou wilt'; a phrase which was later adopted by the occultist Aleister Crowley when he developed his religion of Thelema. The club was not known as the Hellfire Club while it was in operation. It's said that an argument amongst club members led to the club being known to the public, and when it was exposed in London's newspapers it was branded as the Hellfire Club. This is due to rumours that the Knights held similar ideologies and rituals to the original Hellfire Club. By 1774 the club had practically disbanded, although I have found contradicting information suggesting it was abandoned during 1766.

The 1766 date likely comes from a prank which John Wilkes played on the Earl of Sandwich. In a publication from 1766, it is said that "Wilkes had smuggled in a baboon of all things, but worse than this, he dressed it up as a devil (in phantastic garb, in which childish imagination cloths devils) and concealed the poor creature in a large chest, which he then rigged up so that he could open it from his chair without any of the company noticing, and let the animal loose". It's unclear, but this published statement could be what led to public knowledge of the club, and it's branding as another Hellfire Club.

While Benjamin Franklin visited England between the years of 1764 and 1775, he befriended Sir Francis Dashwood. Due to this close friendship, Franklin visited the caves on a number of occasions; however, it seems Franklin was never a member of the club. It is said that despite not being a member, apparently Franklin did attend some club meetings. Paul Whitehead was the steward of the club and so maintained it's records. It's said he burned the club's records three days before his death in 1774. As a result, very little is known about what the club actually did within the caves. We do know that meetings were held in the Inner Temple at the end of the caves, and during the 1750s a small boat was required to cross a river in order to access the temple. This river was called the River Styx, and this name choice was inspired by Greek mythology as the River Styx separated the mortal world from Hades.

Paul Whitehead requested for his heart to be kept in an urn in the Mausoleum, and apparently he left £50 to Dashwood in order to purchase the urn. His heart was stolen by an Australian soldier during 1829. I have found a source contradict this information by saying it was an American soldier. As most say Australian, I assume this is correct. The rest of Paul's body was buried as St Mary's Church in Teddington with his wife Anne. As Paul died during 1774, I assume that the club didn't run any later than this year. Sir Francis himself, the founder of the club, died during 1781. After this year, the caves fell into disrepair.

Horace Walpole, an English art historian, antiquarian, and whig politician, lived between 1717 and 1797. He gave the following statement about the club's activities while it was still operational: "Practice was rigorously pagan: Bacchus and Venus were the deities to whom they almost publicly sacrificed; and the nymphs and the hogsheads that were laid in against the festivals of this new church, sufficiently informed the neighborhood of the complexion of those hermits". There are rumours not only regarding the club's practices, but also regarding the layout of the caves. You begin in the Entrance Hall, then move into the Steward's Chamber and Whitehead's Cave. Then you go into Lord Sandwich's Circle, move into Franklin's Cave, and then you enter the Banqueting Hall. This area has also been referred to as the Great Hall. Then you move into the Triangle, which is followed by the Miner's Cave, then the River Styx, and finally you reach the Inner Temple.

It's thought that the Banqueting Hall could represent the womb, which leads to rebirth through the Triangle, followed by baptism in the River Styx, and finally pleasures in the Inner Temple. The theory relating to a sexual layout of the caves was proposed by Daniel P. Mannix in his book about the caves. This theory hasn't been mentioned by the National Trust, and is alledgedly refuted by the Dashwood family. The Inner Temple is located directly beneath St Laurence's Church, a location which Sir Francis financed the restoration of and he added the gold ball on it's roof. The ball is apparently made of chalk from the Hellfire Caves. It's thought the Inner Temple being located directly beneath the church symbolises heaven and hell.

No maintenance was carried out in the caves, and as a result the main passage became littered with small lumps of chalk. In one place, the passage was half-blocked by huge boulders which had fallen out of the wall. In the Banqueting Hall, chalk lumps were scattered all over the floor amongst puddles of water. The River Styx was also full of enormous boulders which had fallen from the ceiling. Years after Sir Francis Dashwood, the 2nd Baronet, excavated the caves; Sir Francis Dashwood, the 11th Baronet and family descendant, visited the caves. When the modern Sir Francis was a child, his family used to make occasional expeditions to the caves. A man called Mr Fryer lived in a house opposite to the caves, and he kept the key to the cave's entrance door which was located at the end of a brick tunnel at the entrance. Fryer would charge a few pennies before handing over the key and a few candle stubs.

Sir Francis Dashwood's dad was Sir John Dashwood, and John stipulated that part of the proceeds would go towards the upkeep of the church. From this tale about Mr Fryer, it seems the caves have been open to visitors ever since they were built; but really it was only the locals who knew about them. This meant that few people visited the caves and they fell into a terrible state. I've found that the caves have been a tourist attraction since 1863, but this date could just mark the rough time period where you could get the key for a small charge. They definitely were not a tourist attraction as we know them today during that time.

The entrance was protected by the remains of the original iron railings with barbed wire filling in the gaps. The flint-faced arch and columns over the entrance tunnel were knocked down at the start of the war, presumably World War Two, on the orders of the estate's land agent, Captain Hill. This was done to form a barricade that could protect villagers from bomb blasts as the caves were intended to be used as an air-raid shelter. As the Hellfire Caves were located in a rural area, the plans to use them as an air raid shelter were not put into action.

The Hellfire Caves were renovated during the late 1940s and early 1950s. This renovation meant that during 1951, Sir Francis could formally re-open the caves as a tourist attraction. He charged one shilling and provided people with free candles. A wave of publicity followed, as did visitors. The local vicar, Father Allen, told the Daily Mirror: "My tummy wobbles like a jelly every time I pass the entrance". He followed this statement with a sermon denouncing the evil influence which emanated from the caves. Sir Francis disagreed with the vicar on the nature of the caves and felt any evil in the caves would soon evaporate after the place was subjected to the eyes of the crowds of skeptical visitors. He thought the worst solution would be to bottle it all up by keeping the caves shut and in doing so lend credibility to such stories. This shows there have always been tales of ghosts inhabiting the caves, and there likely always will be.

At the weekends, people who had come to stay would often help by selling soft drinks at the entrance of the caves. By the end of the first summer, nearly 10,000 people had visited the caves and so the location made a tiny profit. In the following year, much was done to improve the caves and various surveys were carried out; particularly on the Banqueting Hall. This area was considered to be unsafe at the time due to the danger of falling chalk. Conflicting advice was given until an engineer from Yorkshire advised digging a new tunnel by hand which bypassed the Banqueting Hall.

An advert was placed in the local newspaper, and this found an ex-sapper called Jim Powney who had previously been with the Guards Armoured Division. Jim agreed to come and work during nights and weekends with another friend, Les Lawrence, to dig out a tunnel which was 150 feet long by hand for £350. This is the tunnel which bypassed the main danger of the Banqueting Hall. Jim and Les took about four months to dig the tunnel, and they deposited all of the chalk into the Banqueting Hall which raised the floor by four or five feet. Sir Francis also used to help at weekends, although using a pick was hard work.

After the tunnel was finished, Jim and Les erected pit props all the way down the caves where they were needed. Electric lighting was installed, and over the years the wooden pit props were replaced with steel ones or brick tunneling. A cafe was built at the entrance, which was designed by Guy Shepherd. He had previously designed Schweppes Grotto for the Festival of Britain Fun Fair at Battersea. Waxwork scenes were added, and a commentary was installed with sound effects. This was the world's first underground 'sound and vision' programme.

Work was then done to make the Banqueting Hall completely safe. Holes were dug 130 feet down from the top of the hill and into the Banqueting Hall. Wire ropes were then lowered down from these holes and attached to a protective steel canopy which was then hoisted up to the ceiling. Three hundred stainless steel bolts, which were ten to fifteen feet long with large plates at the end, were drilled into the chalk ceiling and walls to make the chamber safe. One of the first visitors to go through the Banqueting Hall after it reopened during 1974 was Mr William Brooks of High Wycombe. William discovered a lump of chalk in a crack in the wall, and embedded in it were various coins dating back from 1720 to 1754. Since 1951, the caves have attracted around two and a half million visitors. Many of the caves profits have been handed to various charities, including the National Trust, to help pay for restoration and maintenance work in West Wycombe. The Mausoleum, which is above the caves, was also falling into disrepair by 1956; but it was renovated.

The Hellfire Caves have been used as a filming location. They have been used in a scene for 'Horrible Histories', and the exterior of the caves has been briefly used in 'Beetlejuice Beetlejuice'. Today, the caves do also have a tea room and a gift shop. I have found that the current owner, George Dashwood, the son of Sir Edward Dashwood, would like to revamp the caves. However, I haven't found exactly what plans he has in store for the location.

Hauntings

The two main ghosts are Paul Whitehead, and a girl called Suki. Paul Whitehead was a member of the hellfire club, and it's said he searches for his stolen heart in the caves. People say he wears old fashioned 18th century clothing and disappeared when someone meets his eye. People have also said he causes poltergeist activity, and apparently his spirit was first seen during 1781. There are reports of an elderly man, but it's unclear if this is Paul or a seperate spirit.

Suki, alternative spelling Sukie, and referred to as Susan for short, has a whole story around her haunting. She is known as the White Lady due to the white dress she is seen wearing, and she is said to haunt the west side passageways. She has also been seen at the Mausoleum. It's said she was a sixteen or seventeen year old barmaid who worked at the local George and Dragon Inn. She got lots of male attention, but wanted to marry into high society so didn't care for the local men and boys. She started dating an aristocrat and recieved a message telling her to meet him in the caves later that evening. The note also said to wear a beautiful white dress, such as a wedding gown.

When Suki arrived in the caves, she found out the note had come from three local boys who started teasing and tormenting her. She threw rocks at them, and one of them threw a rock back. This rock struck Suki on the head, rendering her unconscious. She died later that night and it's said she has haunted the caves since. The ending of Suki's story does have some variations to it. Some people say she was left to die in the caves, and other say the boys carried her back to the inn where she then died. As there are seemingly no reports of any deaths having occured within the caves; I would assume either the story is made up, or she was carried out of the caves. It's said she can be heard crying within the caves.

Other activity includes temperature drops without cause, strange lights and orbs have been seen, plus disembodied voices have been heard. People have been touched by unseen hands, particularly on the back of the head or hair. Gregorian chanting has apparently been heard coming from the Inner Temple, and the ghost of Benjamin Franklin has been said to haunt the caves. There is no information on the details around his haunting though. There have reportedly been sounds of moving furniture, and the crying of children. Gravel has been thrown at people, and a dark figure has been seen in the Banqueting Hall. It's said thst this figure sometimes wears a long dark robe and is accompanied with an overpowering sense of unease. It's also been speculated that this figure is a club member. The staff of the caves have been told to shush, and there might be at least one child in the caves. It's said there is both a little boy and a young girl present. Apparently there is also a hooded monk. The ghost of Sir Francis Dashwood is said to haunt the caves too, but I don't know which of the seemingly multiple Sir Francis Dashwoods this is said to be.

Summary Of Hauntings

1. Paul Whitehead, old fashioned 18th century clothing

2. An elderly man (Paul Whitehead?)

3. Suki/Sukie/Susan, lady in white, heard crying - Mausoleum, cave west Side passageways

4. Benjamin Franklin

5. Sir Frances Dashwood

6. A little girl

7. A little boy

8. A hooded monk

9. A dark figure, long dark robe, sense of unease - Banqueting Hall

10. Staff told to shush

11. Disembodied voices

12. Gravel thrown

13. Crying of children

14. Sounds of moving furniture

15. Gregorian chanting - Inner Temple

16. Strange lights and orbs

17. Temperature drops

18. Touched on back of head or hair

My Thoughts

For a place called 'The Hellfire Caves', and with such rumours as what are attached regarding rituals and inappropriate behaviours, I'm surprised there aren't more hauntings. Not because I think such activities would lend to more spirits genuinely being present, but because I would expect a location like this to capture the public's imagination to the extent where hauntings are naturally fabricated, warped, or blown out of proportion. I know the location does discuss it's hauntings a little as you're wandering the caves, but I don't think they've contributed to what is said to haunt the location. If they have, then it's far subtler than what they could do.

A particularly interesting thing about this location is it can show the impact of reputation. A few hauntings may very well have been made up by the public, and this is evident through the vicar's reaction to the location along with how the newspapers seem to have deemed the club as a Hellfire Club. This fear mongering, and the name, could have effected the public to a degree; although far less than I would expect. As it's only been open in fairly recent years, perhaps this has dampened rumours of any ghostly goings on.

I think Paul Whitehead, Dashwood family members, and members of the Hellfire Club are the most likely spirits to haunt this location. The story about Sukie strikes me as a local legend instead of fact, so I am hesitant in trusting that story. The same goes for anything else with no details such as the children. I do think Benjamin Franklin has potential to haunt here, but I do feel he's been brought up as a buzz word for the content of investigators, kind of like how the current buzz word is 'demon'. I think this location raises interesting things, such as the psychological impact on the public and how something is viewed. I also think it raises questions around if spirits can traverse beyond their place of death given it's said the Lady in White has been sighted above the caves by the Mausoleum. As a result, this article will be tagged as a location of interest.

Thank You!

Thank you for reading this article! This has been a location I've wanted to write about for a bit of time as I do believe these caves are fairly well known. What I particularly liked was how this article seems to have shown the truth behind the myth, akin to what happened in the Rasputin and Crowley articles. It's always of great interest whenever something is viewed one way, but then you find out it's only viewed thst way because people have too easily trusted the word of newspapers. It really highlights the importance of looking through multiple sources from multiple backgrounds before making your mind up on a particular topic.

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Sources I Have Used

1. The Hellfire Caves

2. The Little House Of Horrors

3. Curious Archive

4. The Morbid Tourist

5. The National Trust

6. Heritage Daily

7. Atlas Obscura

8. Spiritshack

9. West Wycombe Estate

10. Heritage Explore

11. BBC Home